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Managing PMT/vPvM substances in consumer products through the concepts of essential-use and functional substitution: a case-study for cosmetics
Environmental Science: Processes & Impacts ( IF 5.5 ) Pub Date : 2023-05-03 , DOI: 10.1039/d3em00025g
Joanke van Dijk 1, 2 , Romain Figuière 3 , Stefan C Dekker 1 , Annemarie P van Wezel 2 , Ian T Cousins 3
Affiliation  

Measures are needed to protect water sources from substances that are mobile, persistent and toxic (PMT) or very persistent and very mobile (vPvM). PMT/vPvM substances are used in a diverse range of applications, including consumer products. The combined application of the essential-use and functional substitution concepts has been proposed to phase out substances of concern and support the transition to safer and more sustainable chemicals, a key goal of the European Commission’s Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability. Here, we first identified the market share of PMT/vPvM containing cosmetic products. We found that 6.4% of cosmetic products available on the European market contain PMT or vPvM substances. PMT/vPvM substances were most often found in hair care products. Based on their high occurrence, the substances Allura red (CAS 25956-17-6), benzophenone-4 (CAS 4065-45-6) and climbazole (CAS 38083-17-9) were selected as case-studies for assessment of their functionality, availability of safer alternatives and essentiality. Following the functional substitution framework, we found that the technical function of Allura red was not necessary for the performance of some cosmetic products, making the use non-essential. For other applications of Allura red, as well as all applications of benzophenone-4 and climbazole, the technical function of the chemical was considered necessary for the performance. Via the alternative’s assessment procedure, which used experimental and in silico data and three different multicriteria decision analysis (MCDA) strategies, safer alternatives were identified for all case-study chemicals. All assessed uses of PMT/vPvM substances were thus deemed non-essential and should consequently be phased out.

中文翻译:

通过必要用途和功能替代的概念管理消费品中的 PMT/vPvM 物质:化妆品案例研究

需要采取措施保护水源免受可移动、持久性和有毒(PMT)或高持久性和高移动性(vPvM)物质的影响。PMT/vPvM 物质用于多种应用,包括消费品。已提议结合应用必要用途和功能替代概念,以逐步淘汰令人关注的物质并支持向更安全、更可持续的化学品过渡,这是欧盟委员会化学品可持续发展战略的一个关键目标。在这里,我们首先确定了含有 PMT/vPvM 的化妆品的市场份额。我们发现欧洲市场上 6.4% 的化妆品含有 PMT 或 vPvM 物质。PMT/vPvM 物质最常见于护发产品中。由于其高出现率,诱惑红物质 (CAS 25956-17-6),选择二苯甲酮-4 (CAS 4065-45-6) 和甘巴巴唑 (CAS 38083-17-9) 作为案例研究,以评估其功能性、更安全替代品的可用性和必要性。根据功能替代框架,我们发现诱惑红的技术功能对于某些化妆品的性能来说并不是必需的,因此其使用不是必需的。对于诱惑红的其他应用,以及二苯甲酮-4 和甘巴巴的所有应用,化学品的技术功能被认为对于性能是必要的。我们发现诱惑红的技术功能对于某些化妆品的性能来说并不是必需的,因此使用不是必需的。对于诱惑红的其他应用,以及二苯甲酮-4 和甘巴巴的所有应用,化学品的技术功能被认为对于性能是必要的。我们发现诱惑红的技术功能对于某些化妆品的性能来说并不是必需的,因此使用不是必需的。对于诱惑红的其他应用,以及二苯甲酮-4 和甘巴巴的所有应用,化学品的技术功能被认为对于性能是必要的。通过使用实验和计算机数据以及三种不同的多标准决策分析 (MCDA) 策略的替代品评估程序,为所有案例研究化学品确定了更安全的替代品。因此,所有经过评估的 PMT/vPvM 物质的用途都被认为是非必要的,因此应逐步淘汰。
更新日期:2023-05-03
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